Since I aquired an Losmandy G11 mount without any goto provision I decided to create my own solution. I was a bit reluctant to use a Gemini, mainly because of the cost, but also due to the reliability since the servo motors are somewhat prone to failure. I also like to have complete control over the software/firmware so that no "show stopper" issues will ever be a problem for me. Looking around the 'net I saw other goto systems that seemed capable, but either they had needlessly complex hardware or were commercial systems that cost about twice what they should.
OnStep is a computerized goto system, usually for stepper motor equipped mounts though any step/dir interface motor driver (including servo) should work. It was designed, from the beginning, as a more or less general purpose system and provisions were made in the firmware to allow for use on a variety of mounts including Equatorial and Alt/Az (GEM, Fork, Dobsonian, etc.) It uses an LX200 like computer command set with a few extensions to suit hand controller-less operation.
There's a telescope hand controller App for Android (free in the Google Play Store,) an option to control through a website (Smart Web Server,) and a dedicated physical hand controller (Smart Hand Controller.) Or, on a PC there's ASCOM and INDI drivers for control. These options allow you to setup and control OnStep using a wide range of software including my Sky Planetarium, Cartes du Ciel, Stellarium, SkySafari, KStars, PHD2, etc. You can see most of the control possibilities in the diagram below:
Also, please visit my StellarJourney.com site for updates, links to OnStep resources, my other astronomy software, or to see some Images taken with the assistance of my OnStep operated mounts.
If you find OnStep useful and would like to show your appreciation and support please consider making a small monetary donation. This keeps me motivated and helps cover expenses associated with my projects.
Re: TMC2130 to TMC5160
I got the ones from bigtreetech and can't get them to work. I tried grounding the clk pin. Tried all kinds of settings. Nothing. They may be damaged. May be user error. Idk.
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
Howard Dutton
Looking more closely I see they do have the two extra pins on side so AFAIK those are the correct ones.
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Troubleshooting 2.42" display
Jerry
So I am trying to get the display working. Moved the jumpers on the back of the display, pin 14 on teensy is connected to reset. Nothing. Hooked my scope to the i2c lines and turned on i2c decode and you can see it sending out 0x78 repeatedly on the i2c lines but no response from the display. I tried a couple of the i1c scanners as well and they cant find any device on the bus (bringing reset high before scanning)
Any ideas? These displays DO run on 5v right, the seller says 3.3-5v but other seller just say 3.3. Wondering if I fried the display.
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Re: MKS gen L enclosure
larry leonard
The wemos and the bme mount on the underside of the lid.
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Re: MKS gen L enclosure
julianporter5@...
On Sat, Mar 7, 2020 at 03:54 AM, larry leonard wrote:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jLed9fkKYuFHow are you mounting the Wemos mini in the box?
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TMC2130 to TMC5160
fetoma
I've seen the recommendation from Khalid that new builds use the TMC5160. I used the TMC2130 and while I have the board out of the mount, I thought that this may be the time to switch to the TMC5160. The one on the Digi-Key website doesn't have the version number stated anywhere. Has anyone bought the one from Digi-Key and know the version they are shipping?
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Re: New SHC Board design
New boards showed up yesterday and soldered a couple up. I’ll see if it boots later or tomorrow.
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MKS gen L enclosure
here is a few links to the enclosure i have been working on for the mks based onstep. i "think" the mount points should be correct but that depends a lot on the printer. the lid is an interference fit, i left holes for bolts to be ran in to remove the cover. any questions feel free to ask.
box https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jLed9fkKYuF lid https://www.tinkercad.com/things/88DJaSQi5L8
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
Daryl <dkranec@...>
They have 8 pins on each side. You can see them on my first picture. Perpendicular to the 8 pins are two extra pins that extend both up and down. They're in that triangle area near the pot.
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020, 6:54 PM Howard Dutton <hjd1964@...> wrote: Do the TMC2130's have just two rows of 8 pins?
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
Howard Dutton
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 04:20 PM, Howard Dutton wrote:
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 04:01 PM, Khalid Baheyeldin wrote:If the 5160 were cheaper and didn't have its own complexities I'd feel differently.
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
Howard Dutton
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 04:01 PM, Khalid Baheyeldin wrote:
Time to phase out the TMC2130 in the documentation?No way.
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Re: Looking for help in flashing and arduino
Howard Dutton
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 10:31 AM, tnut55 wrote:
And, later on when you need to upgrade, you get to learn it all over again!Hassle index for setting up and flashing OnStep (etc.) Easiest to most difficult... The Mega2560 (install the Arduino IDE, plug in the USB, select the board/port, and upload) The Teensy's (install the Arduino IDE, install Teensyduino, plug in the USB, select the board/port, and upload) The ESP32 (install the Arduino IDE, add the "Additional Boards Manager" to preferences, install the correct board, plug in the USB, select the board/port, and upload) The STM32 (too long of a process to cover here)
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 06:54 PM, Howard Dutton wrote:
Do the TMC2130's have just two rows of 8 pins?Howard, We should really do the community a favour and stop recommended the TMC2130 for new builds. Those who have them, go them working and they will still be supported in the code. For new builds we should only recommend the TMC5160 (everything) or the LV8729 (low current, low cost). The number of TMC2130 variants out there has been confusing and we have new member after new member buying the wrong one. Couple that with heat dissipation and lower current, and the TMC5160 becomes an all around winner. Time to phase out the TMC2130 in the documentation?
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
Howard Dutton
Do the TMC2130's have just two rows of 8 pins?
Or do they have the extra pins on one side?
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Re: G11 - Direct Drive vs Belt for long focal length imaging
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 03:15 PM, Rockmover wrote:
I have ordered the same PKP246MD15 motors from Oriental. I assume the 5160's will be ok with these?That's the same motor I have. Keep in mind these are big for a NEMA17 as in long body. You will sacrifice some range of motion... but the servo's hanging off the G11 like the Gemini2 did until recently had to be as bad if not worse. I tested on the Watterott TMC5160 (from Digikey) and it looked really nice [decent but not as good as a TMC2130] at 1.5A (set 1500mA in OnStep Config.h)
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
Daryl <dkranec@...>
I did. I may try with some 5160s I have for axes 1/2 to see if my experience is different.
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020, 4:44 PM Howard Dutton <hjd1964@...> wrote: On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 01:27 PM, Daryl wrote:
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Re: G11 - Direct Drive vs Belt for long focal length imaging
Thanks Howard,
I have ordered the same PKP246MD15 motors from Oriental. I assume the 5160's will be ok with these? https://catalog.orientalmotor.com/item/42mm-pkp-series-2-phase-bipolar-stepper-motors/42mm-pkp-series-2-phase-bipolar-stepper-motors/pkp246md15a2?__hstc=62166835.10d7ca5804073364a9a24112c9353301.1583532334632.1583532334632.1583532334632.1&__hssc=62166835.4.1583532334632&__hsfp=1704468437
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Re: G11 - Direct Drive vs Belt for long focal length imaging
Howard used motors with less torque (59 oz in) to direct drive a G11, and his images were excellent.
So, you can direct drive with the motor you linked to, which provides 65 oz in. However, your motor is 1.45 ohms, and is rated for 2A, so there will be heat dissipation. Will it be a problem? No way to know beforehand. Having more gear reduction makes things easier for the motors, and allows for the use of smaller motors too. For example, I have a 180:1 worm wheel, but with a tiny NEMA11 motor I can drive it with ease, because the motor has an 18:1 gearbox. The motors have no difficulty moving the heavy housing where the motors reside, without any optical tube or counterweight. You may want to consider a motor with 5:1 or 10:1, in addition to the 360:1 of your worm wheel. For example, this motor. There will be some backlash and some non periodic error, but PHD2 should be able to compensate for both, without the need for PEC even. Yes, the best driver is the TMC5160. It has no heat dissipation, provides high current, and 256X interpolation. The 0.28"/step is not a concern because of that interpolation. As for slewing speed, the 4.x branch of OnStep has a feature where you can use a separate microstepping value for slewing (e.g. 1/2) than for tracking (e.g. 1/64), and get much faster slews. Also, search the showcase page for G11. There are a few in there. If I were you, I would try what you have already (2A motors) and start with direct drive. If things work out, then you are done. If you see there is room for improvement, then consider other solutions (a geared motor directly coupled, or pulleys, which will be more involved and use space).
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
Howard Dutton
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 01:27 PM, Daryl wrote:
Hmm. I'm trying to set Vref on my TMC2130's (kingprint 3.0) and turning the screw doesn't seem to modify the voltage. I'm connecting to ground on power supply and touching the Vref potentiometer, but it's not moving. Am I doing something wrong?Per the MaxPCB2 Wiki did you read about the drivers? ...Choice of Stepper driver: Axis1/2 (RA/Dec or Azm/Alt):
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Re: MaxPCB2 First Light!
Daryl <dkranec@...>
Hmm. I'm trying to set Vref on my TMC2130's (kingprint 3.0) and turning the screw doesn't seem to modify the voltage. I'm connecting to ground on power supply and touching the Vref potentiometer, but it's not moving. Am I doing something wrong?
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 3:48 PM Howard Dutton <hjd1964@...> wrote: Khalids tiny NEMA11 motors:
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