That's not a very robust implementation. It might work for a few insertions but will fail after relatively few cycles.

If there is enough headroom for the stepstick modules with the 'tuning fork' type headers, why would you need to lower the WeMos or Teensy (its their pins that are going to largely determine the height above the PCB anyway)? They don't appear to have any components that stick up higher above the module PCB more than a millimeter or two - its not like they have jumper pins like the Blue/Black pill do. No higher than the RJ sockets anyhow.

Installed Arduino 1.8.13, STM32CubeProgrammer and changed the stm32CubeProg.bat on other PC, did all the process to flash the S6v2 again. I was able to do it (Pic attached), but it stills does not work (is not recognized) when i remove the boot jumper.... Im seeing that the stm32 installed in the boards manager is not the 1.4.0 as the wiki shows, now it is 2.0.0 (updated 2-6 days ago) https://github.com/stm32duino/Arduino_Core_STM32 can that be the problem? does anyone know how to download the 1.4.0??'

No. Traditional Bluetooth and WiFi do not play well together in the same module.

WiFi and Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) do coexist on the ESP32 and that's why we use one for the BLE gamepad. Several of us have that working with a separate ESP32 module from the main OnStep controller.

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:10 AM, Drew 🔭📷🚴‍♂️ wrote:

Several things in config.h. Most importantly you are using the TMC5160's but you do not have any current going to them. No wonder they don't move.

If OFF, IRUN defaults to 600mA for TMC5160's so it still should have worked.  Nice to set the correct value, but no surprise it's not the problem.

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 10:39 AM, Dave Schwartz wrote:

I also see that you've used the wrong type of female header for the WeMos. The ones you used are the 'machined' type intended to be used with the type of leg you see on discrete IC's, not the chunky square pins being used universally on module pins. Those machined sockets, while the opening is big enough, have a little spring strip in bottom intended to grip the thin IC legs. If you push a chunky pin into them, it will destroy the spring tension by over-bending it and it will never again make reliable contact for future insertions.

The headers should be machined (matching pin and socket) as the case height is small.

I assume this is one of George's kits and should be the correct parts.

I see you also used those machined type headers for the Teensy. I predict you'll have problems there too.

I also see that you've used the wrong type of female header for the WeMos. The ones you used are the 'machined' type intended to be used with the type of leg you see on discrete IC's, not the chunky square pins being used universally on module pins. Those machined sockets, while the opening is big enough, have a little spring strip in bottom intended to grip the thin IC legs. If you push a chunky pin into them, it will destroy the spring tension by over-bending it and it will never again make reliable contact for future insertions.

Been there, done that.

You should be using the type of header you have used for the driver headers. They have a little single-piece tuning-fork shaped contact intended to grip opposite sides of the pin due simply to the natural spring of the contact shape. They have the correct dimension to the gap so that they are not deflected too far during insertion so they are good for multiple insertions. Its not a large number (I'd have to look it up in the datasheet) but it is more than one (when not abused).

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 10:13 AM, <matteo.mantovani74@...> wrote:

I'm not an expert and I would have some information regarding wifi configuration  using Wemos D1 mini.

 

1) Is it possible to use bluetooth and Wifi together? Inside config.h is correct insert :
#define SERIAL_C_BAUD_DEFAULT         ON
or I have to write:

#define SERIAL_C_BAUD_DEFAULT         9600

 

The Wifi is on an separate WeMos D1 Mini, not ESP32.  Normally that is attached (TTL serial) to the port associated with SERIAL_B.
Bluetooth is on the ESP32 and you set SERIAL_C_BAUD_DEFAULT ON to activate it.  It's "virtual" not a real TTL serial port but acts just like one from OnStep's perspective.

 

2) I don't understand very well the procedure to flash the wifi device.
     If I want to flash the device only through its micro-usb port which Arduino code I need to download ?It is still necessary to enter these part:
#define SERIAL_B_ESP_FLASHING ON and then:

:hF#:ESPFLASH#

 

Very likely not needed.

 

Thank you so much

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:32 AM, Chip Louie wrote:

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:08 AM, Sam wrote:

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 08:55 AM, <YviundAlex@...> wrote:

The buck converter in the WEMOS needs 4.3V to bring the neccessary 3.3V for the main chip....the natural voltage drop at the diode could bring up the problem....It could be that the small resistance between the pins and the socket makes the difference....can you resolder all (espcially the power pins) of the WEMOS? 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH ALEX for helping me go through the process of troubleshooting. Nearly 24 hrs... of continued trouble shooting. The problem could be a bad socket. When I press down the Wemos on the PCB IT WORKS.

I'll follow your instruction to desolder and resolder the headers. The diode wasn't the problem at all. By passed or not, I still needed to press down on the Wemos.

A fellow on r/ESP8266 mentioned that 4.3v was enough voltage to power the entire thing so that wasn't the issue.

The solder joints on the Wemos header strips look cold, like they did not really flow well to the pads on the circuit board. When reflowing the solder joints be sure to use some flux and be sure to touch the soldering iron too to the pads on the circuit board so you get that flow as seen on the pads on the power connector. 

Good luck!
 
--

Chip Louie, Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware

They look cold solder joints by virtue of bad lighting and poor flux cleanup with IPA. But they are proper joints.

The problem looks like the female sockets are not level with the board causing the D5 and lower pins of the Wemos not contacting the female sockets properly.

Hi,
1) Is it possible to use bluetooth and Wifi together? Inside config.h is correct insert :
#define SERIAL_C_BAUD_DEFAULT         ON
or I have to write:
2) I don't understand very well the procedure to flash the wifi device.
     If I want to flash the device only through its micro-usb port which Arduino code I need to download ?It is still necessary to enter these part:
#define SERIAL_B_ESP_FLASHING ON and then:
Matteo

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:34 AM, Howard Dutton wrote:

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:25 AM, <YviundAlex@...> wrote:

Howard, according to my dtasheet these are ME6211 and tey are quoted with 4.3V neccessary
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Nanjing-Micro-One-Elec-ME6211C33M5G-N_C82942.pdf

They're 100mV dropout and the specs seem fine to me, we don't need all 500mA.

Agree!!

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:25 AM, <YviundAlex@...> wrote:

Howard, according to my dtasheet these are ME6211 and tey are quoted with 4.3V neccessary
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Nanjing-Micro-One-Elec-ME6211C33M5G-N_C82942.pdf

They're 100mV dropout and the specs seem fine to me, we don't need all 500mA.

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:08 AM, Sam wrote:

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 08:55 AM, <YviundAlex@...> wrote:

The buck converter in the WEMOS needs 4.3V to bring the neccessary 3.3V for the main chip....the natural voltage drop at the diode could bring up the problem....It could be that the small resistance between the pins and the socket makes the difference....can you resolder all (espcially the power pins) of the WEMOS? 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH ALEX for helping me go through the process of troubleshooting. Nearly 24 hrs... of continued trouble shooting. The problem could be a bad socket. When I press down the Wemos on the PCB IT WORKS.

I'll follow your instruction to desolder and resolder the headers. The diode wasn't the problem at all. By passed or not, I still needed to press down on the Wemos.

A fellow on r/ESP8266 mentioned that 4.3v was enough voltage to power the entire thing so that wasn't the issue.

The solder joints on the Wemos header strips look cold, like they did not really flow well to the pads on the circuit board. When reflowing the solder joints be sure to use some flux and be sure to touch the soldering iron too to the pads on the circuit board so you get that flow as seen on the pads on the power connector. 

Good luck!
 
--

Chip Louie, Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware

on the other hand the ESP8266 has a spec of 2.5-3.3V, so I agree that the buck converter is not the problem :)  lucky that it helped to solve the problem :) :) :)

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:08 AM, Sam wrote:

By passed or not, I still needed to press down on the Wemos.

Yea they can be tricky that way.

I`m glad you found your problem!!! 

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 08:59 AM, Howard Dutton wrote:

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 08:55 AM, <YviundAlex@...> wrote:

The buck converter in the WEMOS needs 4.3V to bring the neccessary 3.3V for the main chip

I've read they are LDO, 100 to 300 mV... so > 3.6V.

Howard, according to my dtasheet these are ME6211 and tey are quoted with 4.3V neccessary
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Nanjing-Micro-One-Elec-ME6211C33M5G-N_C82942.pdf

Okay. So I set all those values for axis1 and axis2, and using the serial monitor commands, I can do commands that return 1 or 0 and get 1, so it doesn't seem to be failing there. Though, I still don't get movement when I try :Mw# or :Ms#

My motors are 1.68A not 1.2 (was thinking of my old ones). So the settings I gave you should work fine.

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 10:06 AM, Howard Dutton wrote:

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021 at 09:06 AM, Howard Dutton wrote:

though you should specify IRUN to match your motors.

That is, about 50% of the motor rated current to start.

So on the motor datasheet it says 1.68 amps. should I try 800 for the value since it says in (mA.) in Config.h?