Since I aquired an Losmandy G11 mount without any goto provision I decided to create my own solution. I was a bit reluctant to use a Gemini, mainly because of the cost, but also due to the reliability since the servo motors are somewhat prone to failure. I also like to have complete control over the software/firmware so that no "show stopper" issues will ever be a problem for me. Looking around the 'net I saw other goto systems that seemed capable, but either they had needlessly complex hardware or were commercial systems that cost about twice what they should.
OnStep is a computerized goto system, usually for stepper motor equipped mounts though any step/dir interface motor driver (including servo) should work. It was designed, from the beginning, as a more or less general purpose system and provisions were made in the firmware to allow for use on a variety of mounts including Equatorial and Alt/Az (GEM, Fork, Dobsonian, etc.) It uses an LX200 like computer command set with a few extensions to suit hand controller-less operation.
There's a telescope hand controller App for Android (free in the Google Play Store,) an option to control through a website (Smart Web Server,) and a dedicated physical hand controller (Smart Hand Controller.) Or, on a PC there's ASCOM and INDI drivers for control. These options allow you to setup and control OnStep using a wide range of software including my Sky Planetarium, Cartes du Ciel, Stellarium, SkySafari, KStars, PHD2, etc. You can see most of the control possibilities in the diagram below:
Also, please visit my StellarJourney.comsite for updates, links toOnStep resources, my other astronomy software, or to see someImages taken with the assistance of my OnStep operated mounts.
If you find OnStep useful and would like to show your appreciation and support please consider making asmall monetary donation. This keeps me motivated and helps cover expenses associated with my projects.
Regarding maximum goto speed.
On my small-ish Vixen SXD with a C8, 6 degrees/second is crazy fast, and feels
dangerous.
I usually stick to 3.5 deg/second as a good balance between speed and safety.
Regarding maximum goto speed.
On my small-ish Vixen SXD with a C8, 6 degrees/second is crazy fast, and feels
dangerous.
I usually stick to 3.5 deg/second as a good balance between speed and safety.
The problem is that there are too many things changing at the same time
and responses from me and others are not keeping up with what is really
going on.
There is microsteps, steps per degree,
The problem is that there are too many things changing at the same time
and responses from me and others are not keeping up with what is really
going on.
There is microsteps, steps per degree,
Khaled, unfortunately, the settings you suggested did not help very much, if at all. The motors still freeze and scream while slewing. I'm using the SHC. I tried a a 3-star alignment and a plain old
Khaled, unfortunately, the settings you suggested did not help very much, if at all. The motors still freeze and scream while slewing. I'm using the SHC. I tried a a 3-star alignment and a plain old
3 degrees a second is still 1/2 a RPM, 7 degrees a second is quite a slew speed , 6 degrees a second is as fast a second hand on a clock, do you really need yout telescope to move that fast ?
3 degrees a second is still 1/2 a RPM, 7 degrees a second is quite a slew speed , 6 degrees a second is as fast a second hand on a clock, do you really need yout telescope to move that fast ?
We need to be more methodical in the testing so that we don't keep running in circles.
What slewing speed you put in Config.h is not what you end up with, depending on
many factors. So that is okay.
We need to be more methodical in the testing so that we don't keep running in circles.
What slewing speed you put in Config.h is not what you end up with, depending on
many factors. So that is okay.
Just looked at the photos, the main shaft of the main worm gear ( the one with the 20:1 reduction gear on) is presumably fitted at each end with bearings, do it extend through the side of the case
Just looked at the photos, the main shaft of the main worm gear ( the one with the 20:1 reduction gear on) is presumably fitted at each end with bearings, do it extend through the side of the case
I have tried setting the slewing speed at 1 degree per second, 3 d/s, 5 d/s, and 7 degrees per second. Sometimes I get close to 3 deg/sec, but never anywhere near 7 degrees per second.
Right now, in
I have tried setting the slewing speed at 1 degree per second, 3 d/s, 5 d/s, and 7 degrees per second. Sometimes I get close to 3 deg/sec, but never anywhere near 7 degrees per second.
Right now, in
If you are interested in a barn door ( also called scotch mount i think), this guy has buit one without a motor, just winds it by hand and has some really good photos.
If you are interested in a barn door ( also called scotch mount i think), this guy has buit one without a motor, just winds it by hand and has some really good photos.
Guy,
Before ordering new things, please try what was said in this thread:
First, try to reduce the Goto speed from the hand (Slower and Slowest).
Then try the changes that I listed in my last message.
Guy,
Before ordering new things, please try what was said in this thread:
First, try to reduce the Goto speed from the hand (Slower and Slowest).
Then try the changes that I listed in my last message.
I have heard people doing it but I don't see any info out there. What happens if your setup has steppers and encoders and you disconnect your motors? Wont the system still work? I just need to rig up
I have heard people doing it but I don't see any info out there. What happens if your setup has steppers and encoders and you disconnect your motors? Wont the system still work? I just need to rig up
Just a few of my thoughts on the subject. As usual, "it depends" :-) in this case what driver you are using. As far as i know Onstep is"open loop" unless you start using encoders, however drivers
Just a few of my thoughts on the subject. As usual, "it depends" :-) in this case what driver you are using. As far as i know Onstep is"open loop" unless you start using encoders, however drivers
George, I just want to point out the there is a 15T(5mm)/45T(6.35mm) combo available in GT2. This seems like the sweet spot if the 16T/48T proves to be too large for the reverse worm implementation. I
George, I just want to point out the there is a 15T(5mm)/45T(6.35mm) combo available in GT2. This seems like the sweet spot if the 16T/48T proves to be too large for the reverse worm implementation. I
Ken, about the 492 Hurst/SATA wiring diagram. I am having trouble understanding all bends without studying it. I find this easier to understand this one.
.HTH, George
Ken, about the 492 Hurst/SATA wiring diagram. I am having trouble understanding all bends without studying it. I find this easier to understand this one.
.HTH, George
To answer some of the questions about our mount, take a look at my blog where I've posted a number of photos as well as videos. I've ordered a 3:1 reduction system with 6mm toothed belt.
See It’s
To answer some of the questions about our mount, take a look at my blog where I've posted a number of photos as well as videos. I've ordered a 3:1 reduction system with 6mm toothed belt.
See It’s
If you hack in some code to control an unused pin to control button backlighting, please do it in a robust way (i.e. allocate the pin with a define in the ESP32 pinmap) and contribute the code back to
If you hack in some code to control an unused pin to control button backlighting, please do it in a robust way (i.e. allocate the pin with a define in the ESP32 pinmap) and contribute the code back to
This photo shows how the Byers drive is arranged on Ealing mounts. At the bottom left, the spiral is attached directly to the motor (which you can't see). The tootheder behind the spiral
Here is a
This photo shows how the Byers drive is arranged on Ealing mounts. At the bottom left, the spiral is attached directly to the motor (which you can't see). The tootheder behind the spiral
Here is a
